Pousada do Monte de Santa Luzia

"Wet or fine, the air of Portugal has a natural happiness in it," said H.G. Wells. One has merely to fling open the shutters of Room 302 at the Hotel de Santa Luzia and gaze out over Viana do Castelo to agree with him completely. From there, you will see in the immediate foreground the neo-Byzantine Church of Santa Luzia, built at the turn of the century, and beyond lies the port through which much of the country's wine exports were shipped to Renaissance England. Although it was once northern Portugal's merchant hub, Viana became a sleepy fishing hamlet three centuries ago, which is pretty much how visitors will find it today. It's an easy stroll through the Rococo chapels and abandoned convents that still cast their shadows on the town. And it is only once a year, in August, that Wells's "natural happiness" bursts into downright euphoria ­ ironically enough, during the festival of Our Lady of Agony, when the streets are filled with color and light.

­ CONDE NAST TRAVELER, March 1993

 Informações e reservas / Info and reservations, click here

Pousada do Monte de Santa Luzia

4900 Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Tel: 351-258-828 889; fax: 351-258-828 892

55 rooms and three suites; doubles start at $75